TCFJR - Ireland

About

Mon, 20 Jan 2025 00:00:00 +0000

My wife and I have been visiting Ireland on holidays since 2008, and have always loved the scenery, the people, and the climate. And for many years since we’ve been talking about someday living in Ireland, as residents and not as tourists. And ideally when we’re still young enough and healthy enough to truly enjoy it.

In the fall of 2024, we decided that now is a good time to put our plan into action. This is my record of this dream.

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Blustery Morning

Sat, 04 Oct 2025 16:05:46 +0100

Yesterday was very windy here on the northeast coast of Ireland, with periods of heavy rain. A storm system is moving across the island from west to east, and there was localized flooding of roadways in our area, but no significant damage. In the west and north of Ireland, there were major power outages and other related issues.

This morning brought more of the same, with gusty winds and steady rain. Here’s the view from the front bedroom (click to play):

The winds stayed into the afternoon, but the rain has moved on.

Dearcadh

Wed, 01 Oct 2025 11:42:19 +0100

Our apartment in Annagassan overlooks the Irish Sea, with beautiful views of the sea, the coastline, the Cooley Pennisula, and the Mourne Mountains in the distance.

In the Irish language, dearcadh is the word for viewpoint, and I think it applies quite nicely for the view we have out of the window in the Great Room.

In Irish, dearcadh is pronounced dee-ARD-cah.

Floodtide

Fri, 15 Aug 2025 10:55:52 +0100

House update

Thu, 24 Jul 2025 10:07:08 +0100

After some hiccups and the usual negotiations, we closed today on the purchase of the apartment in Annagassan.

We returned to Ireland on 16 July, and hit the ground running. The solicitor who had been handling our conveyance work - first on the place in Carlingford, and then on the Annagassan apartment - had some issues that required an unexpected leave, so we transitioned to a new solicitor, who was great.

We wound up closing at a price that worked for us, and the seller agreed to leave the furnishings which turned out to be a big plus for us. We were able to move in without the need to get beds, couches, a TV, pots, pans, and dishes, and all the other things we take for granted until they’re not there.

We’re still at an AirBnB for another week or two while we get the apartment into livable condition - things like utilities and other basics.

Spring in Ireland - Housing

Thu, 22 May 2025 17:23:39 +0100

On the days just before and just after the car purchase and delivery, we made some decisions on our Irish housing needs. Back in mid-February, we had made an offer on a two bedroom penthouse unit in a gated complex in Carlingford, about 15 miles northeast of Dundalk. That offer was accepted, and we started the process of completing the sale. This involves a number of steps, including arranging for a ‘survey’ (inspection) of the propery, and hiring a solictor to represent us in the closing process. The seller hires his own solicitor, and the two solicitors work togehter to develop a transfer contract that’s agreeable to both, with the seller’s solicitor responsible for preparing the initial draft.

As you might have guessed, there were hiccups in this area. In Ireland, the mortgage holder - almost always a bank - holds the physical title documents. The seller’s solicitor requested the release of the documents into his custody per the standard protocol and in good time. Unfortunately, the bank did not produce the title documents promptly.

We returned to Texas in late February, planning for the closing process to continue in our absence. Every week or so, Carole contacted our solicitor, who told us each time that they had been in contact with the seller’s solicitor, who told them they were waiting to receive the title documents from the bank.

When we returned to Ireland at the end of April, our solicitor was now telling us that the seller’s solicitor was reporting that the title documents were in hand - although that may have just been ‘in transit’. Regardless, the first draft of the contract had not been written, altough our solicitor felt reasonably optimistic that it would arrive shortly.

While all this was taking place, we had a survey done on the property. The survey report was not complete, though, and when we tried to contact the surveyor to go back and check on a few glaring omissions, he had gone silent. Message were left, but never returned. Even so, the initial, incomplete report listed a number of deficiencies, and our brief visit to the property showed water stains on the ceiling that had not been there at our most recent visit back in February.

We also started hearing from locals that we met during our day-to-day activities that Carlingford was infamous for ‘hen-and-stag’ parties on the weekends. In the U.S. these would be bachelor and bachelorette parties, which are tradition fixture in Ireland. The complex in Carlingford has a specific prohibition about renting out your unit for a short-term, specifically to avoid such parties.

With progress stalled in Carlingford, and the need for long-term housing still looming, we decided to check out other properties in the same general area. The first one we visited was in Annagassan, a small town about 15 minutes south of Blackrock along the coast of the Irish Sea (just like Blackrock). We liked what we found - very much. As with Carlingford, this unit was third-floor penthouse apartment, but this unit was right smack-dab on the sea. The view from the big picture window in the living room was striking. And again as with Carlingford, it was a two bedroom, two bath unit, but it was in much better overall condition than the other property.

It wasn’t perfect, but it would need far fewer renovations than the unit in Carlingford, and would unlike that unit could be occupied as-is with only minor discomfort.

We discussed it for a few days, and in the end we decided to put an offer in on this new unit in Annagassan. There was some back-and-forth with a second bidder, but in the end our offer was accepted.

We contacted our solicitors and instructed them to cancel the sale on the unit in Carlingford.

The place in Annagassan is about 50 minutes closer to the Dublin Airport than the one in Carlingford, which should make it must easier for our own travel needs and for picking up any visitors.

To recap, after 11 weeks of waiting for a contract from the seller’s solicitor and with no end in site, we cancelled our purchase of the unit in Carlingford. Instead, we found a different property, in better condition, closer to the sea and closer to Dublin, in Annagassan.

It’s still too early to have a contract, but we’ve been told by the listing agent that they require their sellers to have their documentation in order before they list a property, so we believe that there will be no undue waiting for the title documents.

Spring in Ireland - Cars

Tue, 20 May 2025 11:14:33 +0100

Carole and I returned to Ireland on 29 April to continue our efforts. We’re staying at the AirBnB in Blackrock (County Louth) that we used for our Winter trip earlier this year.

We’re about half-way thru our six week stay, and there has been lots of activity. First, we bought a car. On a Thursday afternoon, We went to the local Toyota dealer up in Dundalk - mostly to learn if and how we could buy a car, and Dermot took great care of us. He explained the local rules, and told us we could certainly buy a car, but that insurance coverage might be a challenge. We asked about his used car selection, mostly to get a better idea of how much things cost here, and he showed us a nice looking 2019 Toyota Corolla Hybrid. It was in great shape, except for a minor glitch on the left front wheel well, but Dermot said it was going to the body repair shop the next day and would be ready on the following Monday.

Even though we had no intention going in, we wound up taking it for a quick test drive, and it was refreshing that Dermot treated us like responsible adults. No need to hold our driver’s license, no need to sit in the car with us on the drive. He quietly told me the keypad code to re-enter the lot, and handed us the keys.

The car drove as you’d expect - peppy, better than expected handling, comfortable seating. It’s a four-door sedan, and in the short-term a slightly larger vehicle would be helpful for hauling luggage to/from the airport, but that need goes away soon enough, and the price seemed right.

Carole and I chatted during the drive, and when we got back to the dealer we told Dermot we were interested, wanted to pick it up on Monday if possible, and that we’d work on getting insurance coverage the next day.

As you’d expect, insurance coverage for a non-resident who holds a non-Irish driver’s license is not easy to find. I submitted various forms on a number of insurance broker’s websites, all with no quick reply (which seems to be the Irish way). I made some calls, and got a quote for what I considered a very large amount. But we needed insurance, and I was preparing myself to pay it while I made more calls.

When I called back to accept their coverage, I was told that the insurance company would not cover me for car with a 1.8 liter engine - 1.4 liters was the max size they would accept. That left two choice - either find a different insurance policy or find a smaller car.

Carole suggested I check with Geico, our U.S. based auto insurance provider, to see if they had any referrals for international coverage. Their Irish partner is Clements, whose website claimed they specialized in ex-pat coverage. I called and spoke to a helpful gentleman named Edward, who took my details and went off to check.

When Edward called back, he had fantastic news - his policy quote was less than half the one I had gotten earlier. And, they had no problem with the 1.8l engine. So I pulled the trigger, and paid for a year of coverage. I called Dermot with the news, and made arrangements to pick up the Corolla on Monday afternoon. (The rental car we’d had for two weeks was due for return to the Dublin airport on Tuesday, so this simplified things enormously.)

On Monday, Carole was tied up with work all afternoon, so I drove the rental up to the dealer, and closed on the deal. After discussing it with Dermot the previous day, we decided the easiest way to pay for the car - both for us and for the dealer - was to put the full payment on a credit card, and Dermot has included the fees in his quote. I had called the credit card company to notify them of a large purchase coming thru, and they said no problem. The credit card company handles all the currency conversion, and we can pay it off using dollars, so it also saved us time and hassle over a bank transfers.

Even so, it was pretty surreal to insert my credit card into the terminal to pay for a car. As soon as I inserted my card, the receipt started printing - so quickly that I was certain there was some kind of problem, but it was the actual receipt, fully approved, like magic. U.S. credit cards are chip-and-signature, so I did have to sign the receipt, but it all went much more smoothly than I’d ever imagined it could.

I asked Dermot and the nice woman at the finance desk if they had ever sold a car using a credit card payment, and they both answered no, this was a first for them.

To avoid any potential problems, I asked Dermot to drive the Corolla out to the fonrt parking area, and then I drove the rental car back to the AirBnB. I finalized the insurance coverage using the documents I had just gotten from Dermot, and a few hours later Carole drove us back up to the dealer and she drove the Corolla back.

The next morning I drove the rental car back to the Dublin Airport to turn it in, and took the 100X bus from the airport back up to Dundalk. Carole picked me up in our new (to us) Corolla.

Househunting

Wed, 23 Apr 2025 11:25:24 -0500

We travelled to Ireland in late January, 2025 hoping to rent a house on a one-year lease. The rental market is currently out of control throughout Ireland, with every new listing getting hundreds of applications. Renting to a non-EU citizen adds complications that few (if any) Irish landlords are willing to deal with, understandably.

Towards the end of our trip, we decided to check on homes for sale, mostly just to see what was available, but still looking for rentals. After a few days of looking, we came to the conclusion that renting was unlikely to work for us, so we began focusing on trying to find a home that would work for us. But that comes with lots of complications.

But after visiting a few properties in northeast Ireland, we found one that seemed just about right - not perfect, but something with the size, price range, location, and layout that will work nicely for our current needs.

We put in an offer in late February, and then returned to our home in Texas. After some back-and-forth, the seller accepted our offer. The process for completing a home purchase in Ireland is very different from the ones used in California and Texas, and the time difference complicates communications, but as of now we’re grinding through all the steps - inspection, contracts, getting our Irish visas in place, arranging for payment, etc.

The property we’re trying to purchase is in County Louth. While most of Ireland takes a few days off before and after Easter, in Louth all solicitors take an extra week off following Easter.

We’re returning to Ireland next week, so hopefully we’ll be able to move things along more quickly.

Ireland - Week Two - January 26-February 1, 2025

Thu, 30 Jan 2025 10:22:32 +0000

## Day Seven - January 26, 2025

We continued to acclimate to the post-storm weather.

## Day Eight - January 27, 2025

Before we left for Ireland, we decided to bring my old Pixel 5A phone with us, with the plan to activate it with an Irish plan and phone number. This should be helpful when we need to communicate with the immigration solicitor or anyone other business-type contacts.

I took the phone into the Tesco in Dundalk, and signed up for a 10 euro per month plan that seemed to fit our needs. It took less than 10 minutes at the Tesco Mobile desk to complete everything, and I left happily with a working Irish phone.

## Day Nine - January 28, 2025

I was finally able to get out for a short walk around the neighborhood. I went down to the path along the River Fane and took it the path’s ending at the Dublin Road (R132), then went thru the gate onto the grassy side of the roadway. Overall it was about a mile, with pleasant (but cold) weather and bright sunshine.

## Day Ten - January 29, 2025

I spent some time trying to schedule an in person meeting in Dublin with the immigration solicitor, and made some progress. I’m hoping to lock something down tomorrow, with next Tuesday being our first choice and the Monday before as second choice. Their offices are in Dublin overlooking the Liffey, and we’ll have some time to visit our favorite Dublin restaurant after the meeting, and perhaps do some big-city-only shopping.

## Day Eleven - January 30, 2025

## Day Twelve - January 31, 2025

## Day Thirteen - February 1, 2025

Ireland - Week One - January 20-25, 2025

Wed, 29 Jan 2025 17:10:41 +0000

## Day One - January 20, 2025

We landed in Dublin around 9:15am local time on Monday, 20 January 2025. The flights from AUS to PHI and PHI to DUB were pleasant enough, but the overnight flights from the U.S. to Dublin are kind of a jet lag boot camp. You land early in the morning, and are encouraged to sleep during the flight, but your body clock says it’s not really the right time to sleep. And it’s tough enough to sleep sitting up anyway.

We collected the rental car, and made the drive to Banagher, right on the River Shannon in the Midlands. The AirBnB we booked was about 2km/1.2miles west of Banagher.

When we arrived at the cottage, the host had left the back door unlocked. We took a brief tour, and found a number of issues. The heater wasn’t working in the main bedroom, there were lots of cobwebs and dead bugs in the inside rooms, and the toilet in the main bedroom had a broken seat making it functionally unusable.

We tried to contact the host, but she wasn’t available either in-person or by phone.

We soon came to the conclusion that this AirBnB wasn’t going to work for us, and I made the call to find somewhere else for the night. The nearest city with a modern hotal is Birr, about 10 miles south of Banagher, and we booked two nights at the County Arms Hotel - it’s an older building, but the rooms are fully modern, and we settled in nicely.

For late lunch/early dinner, we found a nice little coffee shop/restaurant in downtown Birr.

## Day Two - January 21, 2025

We had a nice breakfast in the hotel restaurant, and enjoyed the view out the window. We spent most of the day resting up from the long day yesterday. In the late afternoon we stopped by the local Tesco to get some supplies, and I went and got take-out burgers from a local pizza/burger/kebab place downtown.

## Day Three - January 22, 2025

Carole was finally able to resolve the issue with the original AirBnB booking, so now we needed to find another AirBnB for the remainder of our trip. One-bitten/twice-shy, we decided it was necessary to visit the prospective options to make sure they were what they claimed to be and everything was in good working order. This kind of pre-visit isn’t really a thing with AirBnB, but we were pleased to find that each host was very willing to show us their offerings.

Carole found two options - one in Blackrock, a neighborhood on the Irish Sea in the south part of Dundalk about 45 minutes north of Dublin, and aother in Kilgraney, about half-way between Carlow and Kilkenny about 2 hours southwest of Dublin.

We first drove to Blackrock, and met with a very nice host named Karen. Her lodging is a 3-bedroom, 1 3/4 bath detached house about half a mile west of the main business district of the small coastal town. We knew early on that this was a great option. It had a washer and dryer (which only a few AirBnB’s in Ireland have), a nicely appointmented kitchen, an super-fast broadband. We had a nice tour and chat with the host, and then headed out to the next option.

The drive to Carlow was long but scenic, and the first hints of the on-coming storm were beginning to show. We stopped for gas at what would be called a truck-stop in the U.S. It included a McDonald’s, so we had an early dinner there.

The name of the second AirBnB is Lorum Old Rectory, a beautiful old stone building that had been the local rectory until the mid-1970’s. Adjacent to the main building was the Stables, which had been actual stables back in the day. The interior had been lovingly updated, with a noticeable effort at maintaining the historic feel of the place. The Stables were the offering for the AirBnB booking.

The hostess Rebecca was also quite nice, and we left feeling this was also a very acceptable option.

When we got back to the hotel in Birr, we had decided to go with the house in Blackrock. It had the modern amenities we wanted, and was closer to Dublin. We had plans to meet with an Immigration Solicitor based in Dublin, so it would be easier to manage the drive from Dundalk/Blackrock.

The drive from the Rectory back to the hotel in Birr was challenging. It was rush hour in Kilkenney, and the sun had just set, and the only reasonable route took us on curvy R roads almost the entire way. We were happy to put a close on the long day.

## Day Four - January 23, 2025

After a nice, final breakfast at the hotel in Birr, we headed back to Blackrock around 11:00am, trying hard to avoid Storm Eowyn which was hitting the west coast of the island a few hours later. We made good time on the way there, taking a slightly different route to add more motorway time in place of the N and R roads we had used yesterday. (In Ireland, M roads are motorways, compable to interstates in the U.S. N roads are National roads, roughly equivlant to U.S. highways. R roads are regional roads, comparabale to state highways. L roads are local roads, which can vary between single-track roads with tall hedgerows a foot from either side of your car, up to near R-road quality.)

We arrived in Dundalk around 2:30pm and stopped by the nearby Tesco for food and supplies. We arrived at the AirBnB in Blackrock around 4:30pm, unloaded the car and settled in. We split a grilled cheese sandwich for dinner, and met with Danny, the co-host with his wife Karen. Danny went over some of the minor quirks of the place, and made sure we knew what to expect from the storm.

## Day Five - January 24, 2025

Storm Eowyn arrived in Blackrock around 1:00am, with winds of 90mph, driving rain, and lots of noise. The power went out around 1:45am, which was to be expected. We slept as well as we could under the conditions.

The power came back around 1:15pm, and other than a few loose flower pots from the back garden that had been blown around there was no noticeable damage. The winds died down to 45-60mph later in the afternoon and remained relatively high the rest of the night. There were wide-spread power outages throughout the island, but the Blackrock/Dundalk area was not heavily impacted, thankfully.

Chicken Nachos for dinner.

## Day Six - January 25, 2025

We spent most of the day unpacking the rest of our gear and getting things organized. We made use of the washer/dryer to clean our traveling closes, and went back to Tesco to grab a few more items.